Install a 10 psi Pressure Regulator because drip tape must be used with pressures less than 10 psi. Just like the Power-Loc fittings, the Drip Tape fittings, work the same way. Screw the coupler all the way up, insert the drip tape and screw down to lock on. Anywhere along the tubing that you would like drip tape to branch off use a Punch Tool to make a hole in poly tubing in the side your drip tape, not on the top. This fitting allows you to individually turn off each drip tape line on and off.
Cut the drip tape to the length of the bed. When cutting your tape, cut it in between the emitters not on the emitter slit. When you install your drip tape make sure that the side with the slits is facing up. Installation and Care Tips Lay out your poly tubing and your drip tape in the warm sun.
It will be a lot easier to deal with and unwind. If it's hard to get your fittings into either the end of your poly tubing or at the end of the drip tape, just moisten it a little bit with cold water or spit, that works too!
If your garden is far away from the hydrant, this is much cheaper than buying a long garden hose to go from the hydrant to the garden. You should always install a check valve or backflow preventer before your garden hose or drip irrigation system. This will prevent garden dirt from contaminating your water source or household water system. Pay attention to the difference between Garden Hose thread and Pipe Thread when choosing adapters.
On Pipe Thread, there are more threads per inch than on Garden Hose thread. This fitting can go between your hydrant and the check valve:. Drip tape is designed to work best at 12 PSI. Install a Pressure Regulator where your header line enters the garden, or at the hydrant if it is not too far away or up or down hill from the garden.
The reduced pressure will also help to prevent leaks in the line. Use two hose clamps on each adapter. Stop heating as soon as it is hot to the touch, and put the adapter in and tighten the clamps right away.
Use teflon pipe thread tape on all your pipe threads. Once you have the Blue Stripe Header Line running from your hydrant along the ends of all your beds, with check valve, filter, pressure regulator, and garden hose bibb installed, it is time to punch holes for your drip tape valves:.
The Blue Line can help you to make sure that your header line is not twisted. Untwist it if necessary so that the Blue Line is on top all along its length. If the emitters are on the bottom then you run the risk of cementation or other related problems. I have no research data to back this up but I would think that if the "hardhose" is buried in the soil with the emitter hole in the top surface of the pipe, then the chances of soil particles entering through the hole when the system is de-pressurized would be greater than if the hole was in the underside of the pipe.
If only because of gravity! As for clogging via sediment which has passed through the filters. I have seen first hand the effects of trying to save a few dollars by buying a filter system that was not effective, but it was cheaper. I am sure that I have read on a brochure from one of the suppliers that their hardhose emitters work in all positions as the emitter takes the water from the center of the pipe as opposed to tape which takes it from the side.
I know there is a group of growers over there from central Victoria on a visit to CalPoly for a course, and no doubt some serious partying. Nearly all these growers would be using soft wall tape of about 12 mil wall thickness, with the emitter stuck to the inner wall of the tube, and only one outlet per emitter. They can generally get years service if there careful, some use it one year only.
From what I've seen in the field I need to double check its usually buried cm " underground with the emitter face up.
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